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Dining Beyond Zone 1: The County Arms, Wandsworth
A welcome return for Dining Beyond Zone 1, our occasional series of restaurant reviews dedicated to seeking out quality local places to dine beyond the frenzy of Central London. Occupying its spot by Wandsworth Common since 1852, The County Arms has long been a locals pub serving a good line in Youngs beers but not much else. In the past few months, its been taken over by new owners, given a shiny new lease of life and turned into a fully fledged gastropub. Whether it has what it takes to lure further afield foodies down south and off the tube map remains to be seen.
The menu blends pub classics (fish & chips) with slightly fancier fare (cote de boeuf). The propensity to throw in needless French terms is trs irriter given its supposedly a traditional English pub, but thankfully the food itself translates better. A simple pea and ham soup is made great by a meaty stock, whilst the high quality of beef used for the steaks and burgers comes through in every bite. Meanwhile, a fillet of lesser*used grey mullet is given the Gok Wan treatment with a herb-filled, crunchy oat crust that leaves it every bit as appealing as its somewhat sexier sibling the red mullet.
In the pudding department, the likes of sticky pecan pie and Battersea made ice cream round things off in the proper pub way. The menu changes regularly, so whats on offer will be a surprise, but friendly service, large portions and fairly low prices should ensure you leave with a smile. Anyone in the vague vicinity is recommended to get down there sharpish. In a city increasingly full of very good gastropubs, it may not quite be special enough to warrant a trek down from North London just yet, but its certainly one to keep an eye on as it's not a long way off.
Fluid London
Best for: Weekend lunches, time out by Wandsworth Common.
Great: Service, pub garden, specials.
Blessed, as I am, to live in this fantastic city called London, and despite every doorway being an opening to some potential new and effervescent experience, I do experience the occasional, though now infrequent, urge to leave its sometimes Dickensian cloying streets to encounter the fresh air surrounding it. Lightness, space! Oh joy! I can see myself skipping around and throwing my arms skyward in the spirit of a Daz advertisement.
That is to say, while I see myself in my imagination whooping and crying free love, it’s not often that I actually do it any more. It was with some pleasure and, dare I say it, confusion, though, that I found myself moving southwards towards Wandsworth Common and The County Arms pub recently.
‘Is Wandsworth in London?,’ I found myself asking a fellow occupant of London’s more closely knit parts. ‘Really?!’, I said, when he answered in the affirmative, ‘Do you think it counts?’
The answer, through furrowed brow and a tired disposition, was, ‘Yes but it’s a bit of cop out.’ I do know of course that Wandsworth Common falls under London’s dominion but it does seem so very far away.
I was right; it wasn’t close. It took me over an hour and a half to get there. Some might say this is ordinary for London travel but the fact can’t be denied that the same time could result in the trip to ye olde Norfolk, the home of tranquil broads, redundant windmills and my once childhood home. Still, when experienced, Norfolk does induce such wondrous exclamations such as ‘Space! Light! I can breathe!’ and a similar feeling compelled me to smile when I saw The County Arms standing firm and proud, neatly placed by the road which threads its way through Wandsworth Common.
‘This looks like the pubs I used to eat in in Norfolk!’, I proclaimed to my companion. ‘I wonder if the food is as good. ’ (I should qualify this at this point that when I lived there, the food in pubs was always better than the food in restaurants. I’m not sure if the situation has changed but I have no information which makes me think otherwise).
It turns out the food is as good. So good in fact that it crossed my mind that The County Arms could actually be a pub in Norfolk. Were we in Norfolk, or Wandsworth as my journey to Tooting Bec had suggested? Had the owners of The County Arms uprooted an innocent building entrenched in one of England’s counties and plonked it fair and square in a plot of land on the edge of Wandsworth Common, perhaps to trick it, to feign innocence over the move, to make it feel at home and undisturbed?
The French Onion Soup served with oozing cheesy bread suggested that this might actually have happened. The fresh green pear, walnut and stilton salad did not suggest otherwise. No, neither did the fragrant sea bass. Nor the very large and generously cheesy Greek Salad.
Were we actually out of town? It was very quiet, not many people out on a Monday night but then that sits perfectly within county behaviour in my experience. Apparently Sunday was very very busy, packed to the rafters. As was the patio. And the Moroccan seating area. And the pub garden out back. That, in my experience, would suggest the behaviour of an out-of-town pub diner, not that of those dwelling in London’s more densely packed areas with their often random and constant pursuit of activity and enjoyment any day of the week.
The prices? No, the prices weren’t particularly ‘London’ either. Main courses averaged £10. The County Arms also do a ‘Dine with Wine’ meal deal for £20. The service – sweet country folkdom is what I experienced. No, not the country yokel variety, more the warm and informal type.
I was in fact in Wandsworth. This was confirmed when I got outside and had to cross the road to the bus stop to get back to Tooting Bec. Tooting Bec, now there’s a sturdy part of London. So very very close to The County Arms but so very very far in every other way. My trip to the country was over. Time to get back to the smoke. I always enjoy these little sojourns to the country even though living there permanently is really not for me. But oh, to have a place to gaze at the horizon and say, ‘I see green!’ It’s a very lovely thing. And so is The County Arms. Go there when tired of London, you get to cheat and not really leave it. And when rejuvenation transpires, get back on the tube to go home.
Claire Roberts (03/11/2010)
Description
The County Arms is an imposing building on Trinity Road that you just can't miss, and let's be honest, you really shouldn't either!
The welcoming, sumptuous and cosy interior has huge open fireplaces, squashy leather chairs and a great dining room, whilst the garden can only be described as the best in South West London.
Seasonal gastro style fresh food is served all day, every day, inside or outside. And the bar offers an unrivalled selection of award winning beers, plus over 50 wines and cocktails.
The function room upstairs is the perfect place for your business breakfast or your private party and we can adapt our menus to suit all needs and tastes.
Customer Reviews
The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of The County Arms.
“Love this place. Don't go often but when I do, it's always good. Very reliable Sunday lunch, always great. Nice to have the huge space they do too, inside and out so you can wander about and you're not sitting on top of the bar. Friendly, informal, looks good too. It's a pub I go back to.”
Josie Deene, London (2 months ago)
A Gem Of A Local
After a complete makeover, the County Arms is one of my favourite places to eat in Wandsworth. With its stylish decor and beautiful fireplace, it feels even cosier than my own home! Newly appointed head chef Rob Tynan is serving a traditional yet innovative British menu, made from British ingredients. My favourite dish is the Honey, Soy & Sesame Beef Ribs with the best hand cut chips I've ever had. But don't eat too much of it so that you have room for their amazing desserts too! Hurry up for their great value wine & dine offer.
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